For Spring Summer 2020 Milano Unica suggested a “Music Menu” and three themes: “Cous Cous Rap”, “Funky Tabbouleh” and “Bon Bon Jazz”, very bold, energetic and colorful, dedicated to the most lighthearted season of the year.
In selecting the fabrics and accessories presented by the exhibitors we immediately had the impression that they have engaged in the three themes with passion, expressing their creativity with interested dedication across the three trends.
Most of the companies followed the color chart proposed in the Trend Roadshow, with an added touch of personality, analyzing the stylistic indications suggested and inventing new ones.
COUS COUS RAP
In Cous Cous Rap, where rhythm and exaggeration represent a fundamental key for interpretation, “Extra Red” dominates the theme, combined with the hues of “Saffron Suq” evoking the atmospheres of the Orient in contrast with the neutral tones of “Suburban Grey”, “Murales Green” and “Synthetic Turquoise”, which recall underground environments and its graffiti. “Moroccan Blue” and “Bling Bling Gold” celebrate the most luxurious splendors, while “Oil Green” peeps out sporadically in support of the suburban look. Solid color fabrics feature granular weaves with sandy textures and a raw look. Stripes come in different versions, both patterned and jacquard, with plays of striped designs, multicolor bayadere for shirting and glossy tapes on sandy bases.
An aesthetic that uses “over” as its prevailing element could not neglect meshes with murales prints and macro braiding. Jacquard presents animalier patterns, tapestry and macro checks enhanced by the use of unusual tones and oversize.
Prints feature animalier and leopard patterns and also new types of urban camouflage. Denim presents eclectic treatments: from “deep blue” to tropical and animalier effects. “Bling Bling Gold”, bold and vibrant, develops in braiding and smearing. Irreverent and ironic floral developments come in embroidery and jacquard as well as prints.
Accessories also reveal “over” shapes, colors and patterns: over-embroidered and over-printed appliqués also on metal tops with studs. Tapes and trims feature “mix and match” designs or animalier effects. “Bling Bling Gold ” comes also on buttons and studs.
Funky Tabbouleh reveals great interest in the color chart, followed with enthusiasm. We have received many materials showing the bold hues of disco music, like “Crazy Violet” and “Positive Orange”. The “Strobo Silver” and “Metallic Chakra” were extensively reflected in the glossy proposals.
The most organic tones like “Deep Oubergine” and “Love Tomato” were developed both in solid colors and in the patterned designs, playing the lion’s share in one section of the exhibition, while “Lemon Yeah” did not follow the same development, but stands out as a vinyl accent among fabrics.
A stroboscopic space where the fabrics are mostly luminous: from smeared fabrics to extra glossy or sequined jerseys, from smeared silver on cotton and nylon to mirrored nylon and strobo applications. Fringes are undisputed protagonists, in different lengths, on fil coupé and jacquard, they seem to vibrate amidst other materials. Shirting features oleographic, funky aspects inspired by sound waves, virtual micropatterns, nirvana prints with chlorophyll accents; traditional stripes are also revolutionized in combinations and size.
Transparencies are interestingly innovative, super-light, with iridescent effects and an impalpable hand, developed on plastic materials with a paper-like texture. Embroidery is key and developed both on fabrics and accessories, reminiscent of Oriental boudoirs but with spiritual accents, with microbeads and floral patterns. Jacquard presents prismatic shapes, ranging from damask to modern brocade.
Accessories feature iridescent hues on polyurethane films and labels. Buttons, mostly metal and iridescent, come in futuristic transparent variants. The textile applications present nocturnal flashes and decorative elements like sequins and luminescent studs. Tapes and trims evolve in an ultra-modern way with both shiny and matt transparencies.
BON BON JAZZ
For the Bon Bon Jazz theme we noticed some difficulties in following the color chart, but also an excellent development in the “Blue and White” section, with creamy, glazed and soft textures. The most appreciated hues are “Lounge White” and “Blue Jet”, but also “Etoile Vermilion” and “Bronze Caramel” which underwent an interesting development. “Creamy Pink”, “Hermitage Green” and “Pool Light Blue” discreetly intensify the rest of the materials.
In this theme, the solid color fabrics are key and we were struck by the level of refined research developed by the producers in manufacturing the fibers, featuring thick, voluminous and rounded textures. Embroidery shows micro, tone over tone sparks, enriching solid colors with luminous accents. Jacquard is ton sur ton or double color with “bon bon” patterns in lamè.
Polka dots range from prints to jacquard, both in micro and macro versions. The circular patterns are sonorously developed in both the micro and macro versions. Lightweight is reflected in the use of voile, tulle and meshes, shiny and in some cases iridescent. Taffeta and satin come in buttery reflections with super shiny textures. Pinstripes and chalk stripes in shirting and jackets present personalizations and lettering. Fil coupé is discreet in this theme, detailed by impalpable micro fringes. “No season” wool feature ton sur ton patterns.
Accessories feature stripes and polka dots on tapes and trims. Zippers come in pastel colors with glazing treatments and concentric patterns. Micro studs and rhinestones also enliven the applications with matt and pale hues.
©MILANO UNICA February 2019